JESTINE'S
KITCHEN
251 Meeting Street
Charleston, South
Carolina
(843) 722-7224
Jestine’s Kitchen ---
Charleston, South Carolina
“Eat Fried Southern Foods and Live to be 112!”
OK, now that I have your undivided
attention, I cannot fully guarantee the above statement to be true in
every possible case. Yet the true story I’m about to tell you will prove
that such a claim is not out of the realm of possibility. Jestine Matthews
was certainly an extraordinary lady. She was born right here in the South
Carolina Low Country in 1885. Her mother was a Native American and her
father was the son of a freed slave who was sharecropping a plot of
plantation land on Wadmalaw Island. Jestine moved to nearby Charleston in
the early 1900’s and found employment as a laundress and housekeeper.
Around 1928, Jestine went to work for
Aleck Ellison and his wife, who were expecting their first child at the
time. The Ellisons named their daughter Shera Lee Berlin and Jestine
Matthews played a major role in raising that child and providing delicious
home cooked meals, a dash of wisdom, and a heaping helping of love for the
entire family for many decades to follow. In fact, Jestine lived to see
the ripe old age of 112, passing away in December of 1997. Who says a
steady diet of home-style cooking is an express lane to the pearly gates?
Dana Berlin, Shera Lee’s daughter, now
carries on that tradition of soul food and Southern hospitality at Jestine’s
Kitchen in Charleston, SC. Many of the authentic recipes used everyday at
Jestine’s, from the divine “Table Wine” (Sweet Tea) to the nearly
famous Meat Loaf, have been carefully passed down for the delight and
enjoyment of a new generation of Dixie diners. The restaurant’s two
slogans: “Home Cooking in a Warm Atmosphere” and “Southern
Food with Lots of Soul” go a long way towards describing its
undeniable charm. The décor is casual and the clientele is a eclectic mix
of tourists and locals, kids from the College of Charleston alongside
high-powered attorneys armed with cell phones and dressed in the finest
Ben Silver seersucker suits.
My brother Bill and me happened to be
visiting on a Wednesday, which is Fried Chicken Liver day at Jestine’s.
Having an aversion to liver, I ordered a daily special of Grilled Pork
Chops smothered in a red & green Bell Pepper Gravy served over white
rice. We munched on Pickled Cucumbers and gulped a perfect glass of Sweet
Tea while our food was being prepared. A shared appetizer of Fried Green
Tomatoes got us in the mood for the main course. My chops turned out to be
delightfully smoky and the accompanying gravy was flavorful, yet not too
heavy for a hot summer’s lunch. My side dish of Collard Greens was
perfect in every way --- field fresh, seasoned to perfection, and served
up with a dash or two of Pepper Vinegar for just the right kick. Bill
opted for the crispy Fried Chicken, Collards, and Fried Okra. Judging from
his lip smacking during the meal, I can assure you that everything met his
satisfaction level.
As I savored each bite, I was already
plotting my next visit to Jestine’s. Saturday, according to their menu,
is Crab Cake day and their cakes are the real deal --- filled with lump
crabmeat and very little filler. The Tuesday Blue Plate Special of Sweet
Chicken and Limas sounded quite appealing and I’m always a sucker for
Shrimp & Grits (Sunday). Everyday sandwich choices include Seafood Po
Boys, a Pecan Whiting Filet, and Jes’s Meat Loaf. Lunch and Dinner
Plates, served with two veggies, include the Meat Loaf, Pork Chops, Fried
Chicken, Fried Shrimp or Oysters, and a traditional Seafood Platter. A “healthy”
Charbroiled Chicken Breast is also offered daily, but something tells me
that wasn’t one of Jestine’s original recipes. The veggie options,
both fresh and artfully made, are highlighted by Okra Gumbo, Collards,
Fried Okra, Macaroni and Cheese, as well as other daily specials. Dessert
offerings vary from day to day, although I would recommend you try the
Coca-Cola Cake if it is on the menu board that particular day.
Jestine’s Kitchen means comfort food
that can be enjoyed without guilt. If those greasy fingers you’re
licking give you second thoughts, just think of our heroine Jestine and
the long, rewarding life she lived while preparing and eating some of the
best soul food anywhere. If that doesn’t work for you, just get up and
make room at that table. There will be someone just like me waiting
patiently to sit down to a steaming plate of juicy Meat Loaf, crisp Fried
Okra and savory Macaroni and Cheese. If that’s not living right, then I
don’t want to know what is!
Jestine’s Kitchen can be found across
from the old firehouse at 251 Meeting Street in Historic Downtown
Charleston, SC. Their hours of operation are Tuesday - Thursday from 11 AM
- 9:30 PM, Friday and Saturday from 11 AM to 10 PM, and Sunday from 11 AM
to 9 PM. Most credit cards are accepted. Give them a ring at 843 722-7224
for more information.
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