A Long Weekend In Austin Unveils The Capital City's Charm & Underbelly (Part I)

It had been several years since we enjoyed any significant time in Austin. Sure, we popped into town for a quick meal at Manuel's Mexican just this past winter, yet one day does not begin to scratch the surface in one of the nation's most interesting and, well, eccentric cities.

T-shirts and bumper stickers urging locals and visitors alike to “Keep Austin Weird” have apparently been noticed and obeyed. This campaign was still somewhat difficult to explain to our 12-year old son, who just happens to be named Austin.

Royer's Round Top Cafe – We had heard a great deal about this out of the way classic located an hour and a half west of Houston. Arriving just before 11 a.m. on a Friday, we had enough time to briefly explore Round Top's quaint town square before stepping inside Royer's. Our friendly hosts quickly offered up a BLT bursting with plump grilled shrimp (wouldn't that make it a BLTS?) on jalapeno sourdough bread. It was fantastic, but we were not going to depart without a taste of Royer's famous pie.

After a good deal of debate, I overruled the kids and called out for a sensationally tart Strawberry Rhubarb Pie. As expected it was to die for - sinfully sweet and topped with a crunchy granola-style topping. The menu at Royer's is extensive and everything sounds so delicious. Regulars who often journey from Austin and Houston rave about the big, juicy steaks. Frankly, we can't wait to get back to Round Top and give them a try. Go for a cyber-visit or order up a tasty pie today at www.royersroundtopcafe.com.

Weikel's Bon Ton Bakery - The town of LaGrange, TX is infamous thanks to a ZZ Top tune about a certain house of ill repute. Thankfully, Weikel's has earned its reputation in a far more wholesome manner. Their slogan here is “We Gotcha Kolache” and indeed they do.  This joint may as well be billed “Kolache Heaven.” As we mentioned in a previous column, kolaches (brought to Texas long ago by Czech immigrants) are essentially pastry dough filled with anything from meats to sweets. Some look like the old-fashioned “Pig in the Blanket.” Others appear similar to what many folks would call Breakfast Danish. No matter what you call 'em, no one does 'em better than Weikel's.

Weikel's is unique because it is essentially a world-class bakery wedged inside an otherwise generic gas station/convenience store. But don't be fooled by the everyday surroundings. Weikel's is a true rarity and we are eternally thankful. We suggest you try what they call their “Honey Bee.” It may look like a traditional sticky bun, yet it's more like a cross between a cinnamon roll and Greek baklava. This weighty treat is dense with chopped pecans and dripping honey. So buzz on over to Weikel's for a true taste of Texas' ethnic heritage.

Stubb's BBQ – Talk about good old Texan hospitality! The good people at Stubb's really made us feel special during our latest visit to this Austin landmark. Stubb's, named for Texas BBQ legend C.B. Stubblefield, is a well-known music venue that hosts countless big name acts throughout the year. However, this is also a special place to chow down and that was proved once again with their smoky ribs, lean yet moist turkey breast, and their sensational serrano cheese spinach. The latter was something of a revelation – a perfect blending of healthy greens and creamy goodness. Even the Buffalo-style chicken wings, which have become almost cliché in modern American cuisine, are taken to new heights with Stubb's smoky chipotle sauce. Keep on rockin', Stubbs!

Las Manitas Avenue Cafe – This quiet but mighty Congress Avenue standby has built a loyal following over the past few years. They don't do much advertising and there's nothing too glitzy about the atmosphere. It's just cozy and comfortable and the food is consistently excellent. We especially recommend Las Manitas (“The Hands”) for their authentic take on Mexican breakfast. I opted for the Huevos Mexicana with a side of spicy chorizo sausage.  I promptly mixed it all together and wrapped the colorful, egg-laden mess in a still-warm corn tortilla. We cannot steer you wrong in suggesting Las Manitas. You will be in good hands.

*Barton Springs Pool – All the eating & driving around town had left us craving some fresh air and physical activity. Both are in ample supply at Barton Springs Pool, located just south of Austin's busy downtown district. This natural springs pool, which maintains a constant 68 degree year-round temperature, will surely get your blood pumping. Just dipping a little toe in the water was more than enough for my wife Eileen. Me and our two boys frolicked in the clear blue water until the goosebumps and our recharged appetites finally drove us out of the “drink”and into the historic bathhouse. A dip in the over-sized swimming hole is just $3
for adults and only $1 for kids, so take the plunge and prepare to be refreshed.

Chuy's – Refreshment of a different variety was soon found at this popular Austin Tex-Mex outpost. A non-stop parade of chips & salsa (along with some tart frozen margaritas) hit our table and really hit the spot. We were also intrigued and entertained by Chuy's bright, quirky decor. It's pretty obvious that Elvis Presley is something of a patron saint here (his image is virtually everywhere you turn). All in all, our visit to Chuy's was a nice pit stop and left us looking forward to a full meal of Tex-Mex delights. Don't worry ... this is Texas, remember? We wouldn't be waiting for long.

• Royer's Round Top Cafe – Round Top; 105 Main St.; 877 866-PIES

• Weikel's Bon Ton Bakery – LaGrange; 2247 West Highway 71; 979 968-9413

• Stubb's BBQ – Austin; 801 Red River Street; 512 480-8341; www.stubbsaustin.com

• Las Manitas Avenue Cafe – Austin; 211 Congress Ave.; 512 472-9357

• Barton Springs Pool – Austin; Zilker Park off Barton Springs Rd.; 512 867-3080

• Chuy's – Austin; 1728 Barton Springs Road; 512 474-4452; www.chuys.com

Next time we'll drink in a couple Hill Country wineries, tour the LBJ Library on the UT campus, seek out some more authentic Texas BBQ, and even do a little bat watching at Austin's world-famous Congress Avenue Bridge.

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For further information on great Southern restaurants and food sources, please stop by our own web site at www.dixiedining.com or drop us a line at 10115 Cottonwood Canyon Drive, Houston, Texas 77095. We can be reached directly by telephone at 662 404-0816 or 281 605-8610. We look forward to hearing from you.

Until next time … “May the Fork Be with You!”