We recently returned to the South Carolina Low Country for the first time in over two years and spent a full week soaking up the sun and exploring the culinary delights of coastal SC.

The 13-hour trek to and from our HQ in the Memphis suburbs allowed us to try out some new dining spots along the way. Rather than hitting familiar standbys like the Blue Willow Inn just east of Atlanta, Weaver D’s of Athens, Hot Foods by Calvin in Augusta, and Maurice's Piggy Park in Columbia, we made a pact to give some other places a chance.

Stopping for gas and a quick bite along Interstate 20 in tiny Crawfordville, GA, a convenience store clerk pointed us towards Heavy’s BBQ (about a mile due south of the highway). She added, “Most folks really like it, but the sauce is too vinegary for my taste.” I was actually encouraged by her somewhat negative aside, since I tend to prefer vinegar-based BBQ sauces.

Heavy's Butt Kicking Machine

Heavy Grant’s joint is kind of a cross between a BBQ barn and a farm museum. There is a decidedly rustic charm about the place and plenty to gawk at while your pork sandwich is being prepared. The vintage Coca-Cola wagon out front is a hoot and the eatery’s interior is chock full of mesh trucker caps and mounted game. But our absolute favorite attention grabber there is a Rube Goldberg-like contraption that I call, for lack of a better term, the “butt kicking machine.” Heavy’s tasty BBQ will surely do the trick if the machine somehow fails to get the job done.

After reaching our destination of Pawleys Island, SC, we promptly popped in on an old favorite – Hog Heaven BBQ on Highway 17 just south of town. My deepest worries that things there might have changed were soon dismissed with the first taste of pulled pig. Yes friends, I’m thrilled to report it’s just as delicious as ever. I loaded my plate to overflowing and (grinning all the way) made tracks to the nearest available eating surface disguised in a red/white checkered table cloth. The home-style green beans and pecan & brown sugar encrusted sweet potato casserole were (as always) sublime and I’m quite sure the fried chicken is mighty fine. I simply haven’t gotten around to trying it yet!

Hog Heaven

Sure, desserts are served here in Heaven (usually a cobbler, banana pudding and/or some sort of cake), but why bother if you still have more room for that vinegar & red pepper seasoned “Q” sent from above? It’s hands down better than anything I’ve savored in Memphis and very possibly the best in all of South Carolina. Many still swear Sweatman’s near Eutawville is the absolute finest smoked hog the Palmetto State has to offer. We planned on heading that direction for a “snout to snout” comparison. Stay tuned!

Perhaps the most pleasant surprise of the week was our first-ever visit to Lee’s Inlet Kitchen in Murrells Inlet, SC. Tucked between Myrtle Beach and Charleston, Murrells Inlet is known as the “Seafood Capital of South Carolina.” Lee’s has been around for decades (they opened in 1948), yet I am almost ashamed to say we never tried them during our 5-year stay in the area. Now I’m kicking myself for not getting there sooner! Folks, I urge you to try Lee’s “Grilled Choice” seafood platter for just $21.95. I opted for juicy shrimp, plump sea scallops and a meaty crab cake and all three were superb. The service was first rate and the atmosphere clean and family friendly.

Lee's Inlet Kitchen

On a particularly overcast day we loaded up the van and headed for scenic Charleston, SC.

Our posse did some window shopping along King Street, posed for pictures in front of a replica Hunley (Civil War era) submarine, and paused for a terrific mid-day repose at the Hominy Grill. Chef/owner Robert Strehling (sporting a fashionable “do rag” and comfy clogs) chatted with us briefly while our food was being dished up.

Robert and his crew continue to turn out excellent traditional Southern cuisine, as evidenced by my delicious platter of grilled pork chops (swimming in a savory pecan and shallot gravy), freshly prepared collard greens, and some traditional SC “Hoppin’ John.” The buttermilk pie made for a satisfying conclusion, but I still had to sneak a taste of my little brother’s peach & plum cobbler and my #1 son’s BBQ chicken sandwich. Yes, both were as good as they looked!

And don’t you forget “The Hom’s” credo: “Grits are Good for You!”

Hominy Grill Mural

I should add that the Kudzu Bakery in Georgetown, SC was a worthwhile pit stop on our foray to Charleston. Originally ducking in for a cup of coffee and a taste of fresh pastry, we ended up walking away with some peach preserves for Mom, a couple of slices of decadent chocolate cake for the kids, and a ½ pound of some out-of-this-world almond lace cookies. Even with such bountiful booty in tow, I couldn’t help thinking about the picture perfect red velvet cake, chunky homemade pimento cheese, and tangy deep dish lemon chess pie we had left behind. Oh well, my steamy cappuccino helped to soothe the pain as we careened southward on Highway 17.

OK, now back to our stop at Sweatman’s BBQ in sleepy Eutawville (about 1 ½ hours drive from Pawleys Island). I am happy to report that the legendary, out-of-the-way place does indeed exist and the food & bucolic surroundings are surely enjoyable. However, the BBQ swine (slathered in the mustard-based sauce this region is noted for) did not approach the near porcine nirvana we have consistently experienced at the aforementioned Hog Heaven.

Sweatman's Mustard BBQ and Hash

Maybe it’s just a matter of taste. Now people, I have long ago “seen the light” of the mighty mustard seed, but I remain hopelessly entrenched on the vinegar side of the great Southern BBQ divide. Guess it has something to do with some of the Eastern NC blood coursing thru my arteries. I would love to hear about some of your favorite SC BBQ haunts, so drop us a note why don’t ya? Until convinced otherwise, we’ll place Hog Heaven at the top of the heap.

• Heavy’s BBQ – Crawfordville, GA; 2288 Starter Road Southeast; 404 456-2445
• Hog Heaven BBQ – Pawleys Island, SC; 7147 Ocean Highway; 843 237-7444
• Lee’s Inlet Kitchen – Murrells Inlet, SC; 4460 Business Hwy. 17; 843 651-2881
• Hominy Grill – Charleston, SC; 207 Rutledge Avenue; 843 937-0930
• Kudzu Bakery – Georgetown, SC; 714 Front Street; 843 527-7844
• Sweatman’s BBQ - Eutawville, SC; Hwy 453 between Holly Hill & Eutawville; no phone #

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For further information on great Southern restaurants and food sources, please stop by our own award-winning web site at www.dixiedining.com or drop us a line at 2836 Swinging Gate Drive, Hernando, Mississippi 38632. I can be reached by telephone at 901 870-0561.

Until next time … “May the Fork Be with You!”